Saturday, 17 September 2011

Day 16

Spent another day in Burgos yesterday.  I had to stay in a different Albergue as you can only stay one night in any one spot - fortunately there are some private ones that will let you stay if you are injured and I have fluked one of these. So I have two nights running in the same place which is great even though I am not fussed about this albergue.  I'm not sure why.  It has about 12 bunk beds, so 24 places and that is not considered big, but I just don't find it very welcoming. It's probably the hospitaleros, which is unfair of me as they are volunteers and often come a long way to stay for short periods making sure the albergues are open and that pilgrims have somewhere to stay.  This one has two showers and two separate toilets with washing space etc and an internet connection  The internet connection is supposed to be €1/30 min but you ony get 20 minutes really.  The Locutario in the next street is €1.50/hour so I go there when I can.

It's quite frustrating not being able to sightsee still as I am still limping, so I spend the day on the net when I can or looking for Vodafone.  All the shops are on Spanish time (which means open 1000 - 1430ish and 1700-2000) and I have to be out of the albergue by eight in the morning.  I arrived at 12.10 (it opens at 12 which is reasonably early) so get to pick my bed the first day however the second day I get back at 12.45 and have to take one of the top bunks which is a pain.  Late afternoons I spend sitting under an umbrella at a cafe in the Plaza outside the albergue drinking my two beers and people watching.  I am restiing my feet in spite of all temptations and I'm listening to lots of Spanish and other languages.

My German continues to improve as does my Spanish.  My big problem is using the right language with the person.  My brain is in its usual tizz and comes up with answers in completely the wrong language sometimes.  On the other hand I finally found a Vodafone shop and Ana, who says her English is so bad she's too embarrassed to use it, and we spoke pigeon Spanish and English to each other until she succeeded in connecting me up with a Spanish SIM card with data  I was so excited and she clearly felt she achieved something worthwhile too!  At one point she even pulled up a translation page on her screen so we could commincate better  She was great and now I can tether my my tablet to the iPhone and get on the net and write up my days.

I doctored my feet again last night trying to destroy blisters and bandage them up and this morning I coould walk again  It was such a relief.  Mary Alice from Iowa came with me to the bus station and we put our bagckpacks in lockers.  I then bought a ticket to Leon all by myself in Spanish.  I was so impressed with myself.  I had to laugh because there was Emma manging this stuff at 15 and here I am just starting at 51!  Still I was pleased and it brings an element of intellectual challenge in to a physically challenging time.  Mary Alice and I went to see the castle in the morning before I caught the bus.  We discussed that tomorrow I may well meditate on how grateful I am to have a body that mostly works  It hasn't always butt it iss now aand I can't tell you how satisfying it is to do something that relies on a working body!


Did I tell you the difference between Spain's Spanish and that of other Latin speakers?  The Spanish speak as if they have a lisp.  Acccording to Connor at some point after colonising the New World, they had a king with a lisp.  As by definition the way a king does something is the right way, the court began to speak with a lisp too and then because the court dudes are the cool dudes, everyone copied them... and now all Spanish speak with a lisp.  I have no idea if it is true or apocryphal but I love it and choose to go with it.  I bemoan the fact that my childhood wouuld have been easier if I grew up in Spain and, of course, I find it very easy to lisp with the true Spanish speakers!

Onnce I arrived in Leon I fell in with two German women, Margit and Anke.  We soon founf out that the hostels were full all over town and so were the albergues.  I spoke to an Australian couple who told me that they were staying in an hotel at €66/night  Too rich for a two star hotel.  We saw a sign however and found ourselves in the student residence for the university.  Margrit and I agreed to €24 for a single room and bathroom and breakfast with relief and delight.  Anke went off to look for something cheaper!  Margrit and I checked out the fabulous cathedral and found the house by Gaudi, which I absolutely loved.  Now I'm in my room snacking as dinner in Spain rarely starts before eight and I am just too tired.  I've done my washing and am ready to crash - a whole night without other people in my room - what a luxury!  It is going to be amazing to get home into the queen size with Geoff as I've been sleeping in single beds since mid August.

 Another reason for not going out is that there is a very rowdy demonstration going on.  I don't know what it's about and don't care as long as they don't interrupt my sleep!  Goodnight.

No comments:

Post a Comment