Saturday 24 September 2011

Day 1 to Roncesvalles

Up at 6, stuff the not quite dry washing in, get dressed, have 2 cups of tea and some baguette for breakfast. Talk to some of the other guests at breakfast - 2 Australian women, two french couples, a French woman, an Irish woman, a German woman, a New Zealand woman, a German man, a French man, a mother and son of Korean heritage who now lived in Melbourne although he was born in Paris, two Belgian women, two Spanish speaking men, an Irishman and others.

Today's walk is 27 km. The first 20 km are up and down but rising to a height of 1500m from the 200m above sea level that is the start. The last 7 km are a very steep descent. There is only one formal stopping place on the way and that is only 8 km out. One very long, challenging and exhausting day is coming up!
We were waiting for daybreak at seven to set out as none of us felt confident about setting out in the dark on the first day. I started walking with Barbara, Eileen, Carina, LuisMiguel and Federico.  As the first 23 km were uphill and rose from 200m above sea level to 1400m above sea level I knew I was going to be really slow. Carina ended up walking with me and we just pottered along. We stopped at Orison, 8 km along, and bought 'sandwiches' which were really rolls and I had a nut and fruit mix so we were set. It was absolutely beautiful at the same time as being hell on earth. The day started out misty and then stayed a bit overcast until eleven which was a blessing. 

We found water fountains at places along the way which was fabulous as it got really hot. Large groups stopped at the various fountains and we all chatted and compared experiences and those who had studied their guide books and remembered the details shared their knowledge of what was ahead with others. The big questions were how far have we come and far do we have to go?  Once past Orison we were stuck with no places to stop for the night before Roncesvalles without turning back, and Orison was booked out. Not that I had any intention of turning back.  So off we went. I kept getting breathless and Carina kept getting giddy. Carina had had no sleep the night before due to snorers and I was still jet lagged and wasn't sleeping well so we were a pair.  Carina was an Argentinian born American and we talked all day. We stopped for lunch and picniced on a ridge with more beautiful views before heading on.

After 11km we came to Jan's van - an oasis in the desert!

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